Enjoy the work and experience of growing your own food.
Choose vegetable plants based on your climate, space and level of expertise. Look for varieties that thrive in your zone and resist common pests and diseases.
Get your soil tested to determine nutrient levels and pH, and to be sure it’s safe to plant in (less than 400 ppm of lead). Check with your local Ag Extension office.
ABERDEEN – The Monroe County Extension Service will host a vegetable gardening workshop March 28 at 6:30 p.m.
Source: djournal.com
When preparing a vegetable garden, the first step is to determine which vegetables you plan to grow. You can choose to plant a variety of plants or focus on a few types.
Vegetables thrive in well-draining soil with plenty of nutrients. If your soil is too heavy or rocky, add organic matter like compost or humus before planting.
Having a vegetable garden on your apartment balcony can be a great way to grow your own fresh produce and enjoy the benefits of gardening. Even if you only have a small space, there are plenty of ways to create an apartment balcony vegetable garden that is both functional and beautiful. Here are some ideas to get you started.
Unsplash/Representational image
When it comes to growing vegetables on your balcony, choosing suitable containers is critical. You can use pots, planters, or even repurposed items like old buckets or plastic containers. Ensure your containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging, and use high-quality soil to ensure your plants have the nutrients they need to thrive.
Vertical gardening is a great way to maximise limited space on your apartment balcony. You can use trellises, hanging baskets, or even create a vertical garden wall to grow your vegetables, and this method saves space and makes a unique and attractive display.
Unsplash/Representational image
When choosing what vegetables to grow on your balcony, consider the amount of sunlight your space receives. Most vegetables need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, so ensure your balcony gets enough light. Some good options for balcony vegetable gardens include tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, spinach, and herbs like basil and parsley.
Companion planting is a method of planting different vegetables together that can help them grow better. For example, planting basil and tomatoes together can improve the flavour and growth of both plants. Research companion planting combinations to maximise the yield of your balcony vegetable garden.
Watering your vegetable plants periodically is essential, especially during hot and dry weather. Ensure your containers have drainage holes so water doesn’t accumulate and drown your plants. Water your plants in the morning or evening to avoid the midday heat, and consider using a self-watering system to make watering easier.
Unsplash/Representational image
Growing vegetables organically means using natural ways to control pests and diseases, such as companion planting, handpicking pests, and natural fertilisers. This ensures that your vegetables are safe to eat and helps maintain a healthy ecosystem on your balcony.
Because you’re growing vegetables on your balcony doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful. Add decorative elements like trellises, garden statues, or fairy lights to create a cosy and inviting space. You can also use colourful pots and planters or add a layer of decorative rocks or mulch to enhance the visual appeal of your balcony vegetable garden.
In conclusion, apartment balcony vegetable gardening can be fun and rewarding, even with limited space. With the proper containers, choosing suitable vegetables, vertical gardening, companion planting, regular watering, organic methods, and aesthetic design, you can create a balcony vegetable garden that provides fresh produce and enhances your space’s beauty.
Source: indiatimes.com
Starting (and saving) seeds tie us back to tending nature in ways both empowering and humbling. On a more practical level, growing your garden from seed provides a major cost savings. A packet of seeds is usually less than the cost of a single, small-potted vegetable or herb start. Add perpetual savings if you can save the seeds that you grow. However, seed-starting equipment can add up fast. Like all things gardening, we recommend starting small!
There are countless varieties of seeds to choose from compared to the limited variety of plants available to purchase in nurseries. You can select seed for differences such as cold tolerance, days to maturity and colors (to name a few).
A common mistake new seed starters encounter is starting them too soon, myself included! Many companies suggest a number of days or weeks prior to your average last frost date for starting seeds. For my growing zone, 4b, the typical last frost date is generally mid-May, but this date is changing due to climate chaos. You can also start seeds a little earlier if you plan to transplant them out into the garden under cover.
A typical seed-starting schedule for different seed packets will have you starting seeds as early as 10 to 12 weeks prior to the last spring frost, to just two to four weeks prior.
There are endless options out there for indoor grow lights and, like with most things, you get what you pay for. You can get regular fluorescent “shop lights” which are less expensive up-front, but there are specific benefits to different kinds of lights, including light quality (the wavelength or color) that mimics natural sunlight’s full spectrum and intensity.
For the general homesteader starting most plants, a full spectrum light of around 240 watts, or 5,000 Kelvin should do well. We use T5 LEDs and have been happy with the results. Keep in mind that a more efficient light bulb will produce more light with less watts of energy.
A common complaint with seed starting is ending up with leggy plants. Placing the lights as close as possible to the seedlings helps keep them strong. Setting a timer so your lights can stay on between 16 to 18 hours per day is a good idea, too. Plan for enough space under your lights as your plants grow taller.
Trays+Pots
Before you get planting, sanitize the pots and trays you’ll be using for seed starting by washing in hot soapy water and scrubbing off dirt, then soak in a bleach solution for a few hours (for an 8 percent bleach, use around 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water). Rinse well and let air dry. This is an important step to fight the problem of seedlings damping off, which is when seedlings die back at the soil level due to fungus and bacteria in the soil.
The industry standard size for seed-starting trays is called a “1020” which is roughly 10-by-20 inches. Please stay away from the super flimsy plastic trays. Think about how heavy pots will be with ready-to-transplant seedlings before your purchase. You can repurpose plastic containers or buy new pots.
Soil blocking has been around for years but is gaining popularity because it grows great seedlings. Using a soil-blocking press, you pack soil into squares and press out a firm block of soil, removing the need for a pot. You then plant seeds directly into this block of soil. It holds itself together, creating the perfect environment for seedling roots to “air prune” and eliminating the problem of root-bound seedlings. This process reduces transplant shock and makes it nearly impossible to overwater.
I use a solid 1020 tray with a mesh 1020 tray nestled inside for my soil block seedlings. There is still plastic involved, but the process is more sustainable overall.
There is no single best temperature for seed germination, as it depends on the seed. There is a huge variation, with peas germinating in 45-degrees-Fahrenheit soil and beans preferring around 70 degrees, but in general, you’ll get a higher germination rate and quicker germination with the use of a heat mat, especially for many of the plants we typically start early: tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. Heat mats are simple waterproof plug-in units that fit under a regular 1020 tray.
Always start seeds with a sterile seed-starting mix. Don’t use regular garden soil or previously used potting mix, as these can harbor bacteria and fungus that can kill seedlings. There are many brands of seed-starting blends available, but I like to mix up my own blend.
I get compressed bricks of coco coir which yield roughly 2 1⁄2 to 3 gallons from one compressed brick after soaking it in water and letting it expand for a few hours. Be aware that perlite dust isn’t great to breathe in so mixing this outside or dampening the perlite before mixing is advised. See my recipe for soil blocking and seed starting in “DIY Seed-Starting Mix ” below.
Seeds require air, water and the right temperature to germinate. In general, seeds give you clues on how deep to plant them from their size. The bigger the seed, the deeper to plant. Tiny lettuce seeds get pressed into the top layer of soil, while bean seeds get pushed much further down into the soil. A general rule of thumb is to plant twice the depth or width of the seed size. Keep in mind some seeds need light to germinate, while others require darkness. Your seed packet should state any specific instructions. I like planting into already dampened soil and watering them in with a gentle sprinkle of water.
After sowing and watering seeds in, you’ll want to keep them warm and damp to help germination. The simplest way to do this is to cover them. We’ve all seen the clear plastic domes to help keep in the humidity but reusing a piece of plastic wrap works just as well. Remember to remove any cover as soon as you see green popping up! Keeping the soil and emerging seedlings covered too long invites mold—a seedling’s worst enemy.
Just like watering plants in the garden, you’re going to want to water the soil, not the leaves. And since we’ve got them in trays, we can even water from below.
Watering from below helps water evenly and fully, so you’ll also water less often, which is better for root development. Watering from below also decreases “splash-up,” the chance for fungal and mold (damping off) problems.
There are systems you can set up for this, but I still prefer to hand water because it gives me a chance to check on each tray. Let the top layer of soil dry out a bit, and keep in mind that more seedlings suffer from being overwatered than drying out!
The most important part of seed starting is simply paying attention to them daily. Luckily, this is also the part that brings gardeners the most joy: Tending to their babies, watching the daily growth, and responding quickly.
Adding a fan will both help air flow, which will keep pests and diseases down, and strengthen plant stems. If you don’t have a fan, gently run your hands over the plant tops to mimic the movement.
When fertilizing seedlings, use a diluted (50 percent strength) form of organic fertilizer once a few sets of true leaves are present, and only every four-plus weeks after that, if you haven’t transplanted them out by then.
Pinching off top growth and/or buds will help some seedlings (such as flowers and peppers) grow stronger and produce more buds.
If your seedlings get pests (such as aphids), try spraying them off with the stream setting on a spray bottle or take them outside and use a gentle hose setting. Make sure to set a fan in front of the seedlings to help them dry off as well. Air flow in general is helpful in seed starting.
Fungus gnats are becoming more and more prevalent in our seed-starting mixes. To combat, water with a diluted hydrogen peroxide mix (2 to 3 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water), top pots with vermiculite, use yellow sticky traps, and if they continue to get worse, consider watering or spraying the soil surface with a Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) product. Bt is a naturally occurring bacteria that, once ingested, kills targeted insects.
You can also bake soil to kill any adults or immature fungus gnats. It’s sort of stinky, baking soil, but it works. Set the oven temperature between 175 and 200 degrees Fahrenheit (no hotter than that), spread your soil in a thin layer on a cookie sheet, and bake for about an hour.
Moldy soil is another growing problem. I don’t usually have this problem, maybe because I don’t tend to overwater. I do know that mold likes warm, damp environments so removing heat mats and letting the soil dry out a bit will help. You can scrape off the soil with the mold on it, and then water with a diluted hydrogen peroxide mix.
Read more: Planting resilience makes a great case for organic seeds.
Hardening off is an essential part of growing healthy vegetable plants from seed. You’ll need to slowly acclimate your seedlings to the full power of sunlight, wind, and changing temperatures. Find a partially shaded spot that’s not too prone to wind gusts and start by bringing the plants out for fifteen to thirty minutes the first day, increasing from thirty to sixty minutes per day for at least a full week. Try to avoid the noon hour for the first few days as well. Not giving them enough time to acclimate can give them “sun scald” and set the plant’s growth back by days or weeks.
Once fully acclimated to the outdoors, you can transplant when the soil is warm enough for the crop; as this varies depending on the crop, refer to the seed packet. Both soil and air temps need to be warm enough. Now is the time to check out that garden plan you worked so hard on!
I often transplant my tomatoes, peppers and other heat-loving plants out under cover, giving them a little warmer soil and air and added protection against lower overnight temperatures. The best transplant day is a cloudy one, but putting up a shade cloth helps lessen transplant shock. I fertilize at time of transplant with a slow-release fertilizer, or a balanced mix containing N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium/potash) ratios like 3-3-3 or 4-4-4.
When you transplant plants that looked so big in your seed-starting area into the garden, they tend to look tiny. They’ll also take a day or two to bounce back from transplant shock. Try to give them (and yourself) some grace and appreciation. Remember that this plant was a tiny seed not that long ago. And trust in nature, knowing that your tiny tomato plant will end up taking up all the square footage you let it.
Excerpted by permission of Skyhorse Publishing Inc. Copyright © 2023 by Stephanie Thurow and Michelle Bruhn. Photographs © 2023 by Stephanie Thurow & Michelle Bruhn, unless otherwise noted.
Stephanie Thurow (minnesotafromscratch.com) and Michelle Bruhn are (forksinthedirt.com) are Minnesota moms who fell in love with homesteading in very different ways but found friendship through their shared passions for real, local food and their DIY hearts. Find out more about them on their websites.
Source: hobbyfarms.com
Many people find vegetable gardening to be a great way to save money, get fresh air and enjoy the outdoors. Vegetable gardening can also help alleviate fears about food scarcity.
Vegetable gardens are usually planted in the spring and harvested throughout the summer or fall. They can be planted in a variety of ways, from directly sowing seeds to planting transplants.
Growing vegetables is a fantastic and highly-rewarding past-time enjoyed by millions of people around the world. It does take experience to successfully grow crops and there are some common vegetable gardening mistakes that people make when starting out.
There are factors that are going to be out of your hands, for example you cannot control the sun or the rain. There are things, however, that you can manage. That includes where and when you plant your vegetables and how you tend to your garden.
I have grown vegetables for close to a decade, starting small with some raised beds in an urban garden to running a two-acre walled garden growing for chefs. If you are looking for how to start a vegetable garden, then here are some lessons I have learned over the years to help you overcome many common vegetable garden problems.
Radish are one of the simpler vegetables to grow at home
(Image credit: Getty/Ipinchuk)
vegetable garden ideas and have fallen foul of starting seeds early or planting veggies out into the garden as soon as possible.
The first days of sun of the year can lead many gardeners to assume the better weather is here and to get going full-steam-ahead on their gardening. However, starting seeds too early or planting the crops out before the right time can lead to a range of issues, and very rarely does it end well.
Ben Hilton (opens in new tab) of The Gardening Fix says it ‘almost always backfires’ when people jump the gun and go early with seeds or plants. He adds: ‘Cold and wet soil, along with low night-time temperatures stress young plants leaving them underdeveloped and vulnerable. Poor germination and damping off will also impact success rates, often leaving with too few final plants to fill your veg beds.
‘Be patient, and plant out when the soil is warm and frosts have passed, the plant growth rate is much faster and the tender plants are far more resilient.’
Resist the temptation to go early and always pay attention to the recommended timings when it comes to seed packets or plant guides. Going early is a real seed sowing mistake to avoid, so is rushing when it comes to planting. It reduces the chance of wasted time and effort in sowing seeds, being wasteful with seeds or compost, or ending up killing any precious plants you have grown or bought.
Wait till early spring when soil temperature reaches 45˚F to plant your early potatoes
(Image credit: Getty/PhotoAlto/Laurence Mouton)
When growing vegetables, it is imperative to choose the best spot in which your plants will grow to their full potential. The correct spot will mean the healthiest plants and the biggest harvests. There are some vegetables to grow in shade, however most plants want sun and light in order to prosper. When thinking about a space to grow vegetables, or planning a kitchen garden, there are a few key parameters you need to get right.
Janet Loughrey (opens in new tab) of Garden Design claims: ‘One of the most common mistakes when siting a vegetable garden is placing it in an area with too little light. Provide a site that receives at least 6-8 hours of full sun per day.’
As well as light, the soil is hugely important as it will also dictate how well your plants grow. The ideal soil wants to be loose and well-draining and with a neutral pH. It is recommended to get your soil tested to understand fully the soil type, pH, and nutrient make-up. While it is hard to adjust the level of light and sun that a spot can get, at least with the soil you can make adjustments. Janet Loughrey advises: ‘Amend soil with compost or other rich organic matter and make sure the soil drains well.’
When you start your vegetable garden, no matter which approach you take such as digging or trying no dig gardening, always incorporate organic matter, whether it is homemade compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold. The addition of this organic matter not only helps with drainage, but it boosts the nutrients in the soil and also improves the structure. These are all key components in growing healthy plants.
Chard is one vegetable crop that will happily grow in shade
(Image credit: Getty/Martin Hambleton)
It can be tempting to go big when it comes to starting a vegetable garden, however that could go against you long-term. It can be really rewarding to start and succeed with a small vegetable garden rather than convert a large space and then struggle to look after it. That struggle could be really demoralizing and easily put anyone off vegetable gardening.
You want to enjoy the process and not get frustrated or stressed out by it. So it is also recommended that anyone new to the hobby starts small. Though it may be tempting as you flick the catalogs to want to grow everything you can, a small space and a few select vegetables is the perfect way to start. Even if you have converted a large space, rather than give up then just cover some of that space with plastic or cardboard sheets. Those coverings will do the job of suppressing weeds and the soil will be in great condition when you remove them and plant in there.
Peas are perfect to grow in a small vegetable garden
(Image credit: Getty/Halfpoint Images)
As with planting dates, it always pays to take heed of the recommended planting spaces typically seen on seed packets. There is always a desire to squeeze as many plants as possible in any vegetable garden – however it is a fine line juggling space requirements and potential harvests.
Putting too many plants into too small a space will leave them all cramped and battling for water and nutrients. Crowded plants will compete for resources and that limits both their growth and productivity. Giving each plant the space it requires to grow and mature is vital for healthy plant growth and high yields.
Luay Ghafari of Urban Farm and Kitchen admits: ‘For a new gardener, it’s difficult to visualize the space requirements of a crop by simply looking at a seed packet or by holding a small seedling full of potential.
‘That 5 inch pumpkin seedling will grow into a 12 inch vine under favorable conditions. That corn seed will germinate and could grow into a 6 inch stalk. I always tell my clients and students to think about the plant at maturity. Understanding how big it should grow will help determine the spacing needed at planting time.’
The old adage is that ‘proper planning prevents poor performance’ and that is applicable to growing vegetables. If you plan your plot properly before sowing or planting and mark out the spacings each crop requires, then it means each plant will have sufficient room to grow and ultimately give you the best crops.
Thin out carrot seedlings so they have room to grow
(Image credit: Getty/Bill Sykes)
Andy Tait (opens in new tab) from True Green Nursery issues a stark reminder to growers that ‘not all vegetable plants thrive in all climates and soil types’. He says: ‘Planting the wrong crops for your region or soil can lead to poor growth and low yields. It is important to research the best crops for your area and to choose varieties that are well-suited for your soil type and climate.’
The dangers of growing vegetables in the wrong climate zones means they never develop into full plants. For example, onions are categorized as short day, intermediate, and long day onions and planting the wrong types in the wrong areas is a common onion growing problem. It all depends on the level of daylight hours the variety needs to start forming bulbs. Planting a short day type in northern climates will result in small onions, while long day varieties in the south will never form bulbs.
Research is going to be key to make sure that what you pick to grow is right for your climate and soil types. Get your soil tested to understand its type and see if any amendments need to be made. Read up on vegetable types to get an idea of what succeeds in your area, or visit farmers markets to see what local growers are growing in a similar climate to yours. All of these aspects will make sure you don’t fall foul of growing the wrong crops for your location.
Also, growing vegetables in the wrong position will lead to underdeveloped plants and poor yields – even a high degree of failure. This tends to be common for heat-loving plants such as tomatoes or eggplants that aren’t given enough sun to succeed. Always grow crops that suit your garden’s climate and level of sunlight. By monitoring the hours of sun you get, you can play to your strengths and make sure you pick the vegetables that are suited to your particular conditions. If you also have the luxury of being able to plan a greenhouse or a polytunnel into your garden, then more heat-loving crops will be suitable for you.
Short day onions are better suited for southern climates
(Image credit: Getty/Maarten Zeehandelaar)
Improving your soil is a never-ending process for the gardener and you always need to be developing, improving, and maintaining the soil quality. The primary nutrients for plant health are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These will be present in different quantities in your soil and getting your soil tested should give you an idea of its nutrient mate-up. There are ways to add more nutrients of one type – such as to add phosphorus to soil to help with healthy roots and strong growth – or to alter the pH is required.
There are methods in which to continually develop or improve the soil, including adding well-rotted manure or garden compost to boost nutrients, structure, and drainage. Nowadays there is also the common principle of no dig, or no till, gardening that sees compost added on top rather than being dug in. You should never skimp when it comes to your soil as it is absolutely vital to the health of your plants and the harvest you will get.
Ben Hilton of The Gardening Fix reiterates that soil preparation is ‘one of the three most important factors of vegetable gardening along with light and irrigation’. He adds: ‘Cultivate your soil 6-12 inches deep, to add air and improve drainage. If your soil is poor or heavy, add organic material to improve its texture and nutrients. Finally check the soil pH is between 5.5-7.0, otherwise amend with sulfur or lime.’
Fertilizers can be used throughout the growing season as short-term enhancements to boost the soil and there are also aspects such as green manures that can be used to add nutrients into the soil.
Loam has a loose texture and is the ideal soil for vegetables
(Image credit: Getty/Cavan Images)
Along with taking on too much space, growing more than one household consumes is also a very common issue that hits vegetable growers annually. As well as there being so many vegetables you can grow, and so many different varieties of each one, it can be difficult to predict how much yield you will get per plant. A great example of this is growing zucchini, as I have not known any vegetable grower that has not ended up with a glut of zucchini.
As well as limiting the different crops you grow, such as focusing purely on vegetables, fruit, and herbs that your household eats, also restrict the number of plants you grow. This is especially recommended for crops you have never grown before.
A good tactic is to be prepared to get good at preserving, as you cannot rely solely on giving away excess vegetables to friends, family and neighbors when the peak of summer arrives and the vegetable garden is so bountiful.
Bob Flowerdew, organic gardening expert for Homes & Gardens, recommends it is ‘better to process your surplus into something that lasts longer’ than just handing away harvests
‘Fruits are easily frozen, jammed, jellied, juiced, dried or bottled,’ he says. ‘One relatively simple safe way of processing vegetables is pickling, especially when also cooked, salted or brined first.
‘Sadly, although pickling works well with onions, gherkins, red cabbage and beetroots, many other vegetables are just not interesting to eat when pickled. But we can chutney those.’
Again, this is where planning beforehand is key. Try to plan what you want to eat when picking crops, what is a reasonable number of plants to avoid gluts, and how you can preserve vegetables if you do have a surplus.
Also, think of succession planting to try to space out your harvests and avoid any potential gluts of everything being ready at once. A good example of this is with how to grow beets, as you can space out sowings at regular intervals such as every fortnight. This ensures a constant stream of beets at the right size for picking over an extended period, rather than a huge amount that are all ready for harvesting at the exact amount of time – which could be overwhelming.
get rid of weeds, but it is not advised to use chemicals around vegetable plants. You need to check on the label to see if the product is safe to use around edible plants. It is much better to regularly tackle the weeds by hand.
There are other options, such as growing your crops through weed-suppressant materials or, if a section does get really weedy, then you can smother them using cardboard or plastic.
Ruth is the gardening editor of Amateur Gardening magazine, the UK’s oldest weekly magazine. She is horticulturally trained and has qualifications from the Royal Horticultural Society. Ruth spends her working days writing about and photographing the gardening jobs that our readers should be carrying out each week and month, and tests many new products that arrive on the gardening market.
Little and often is the best way to deal with weeds
(Image credit: Getty/lucentius)
There is a huge range of animals or pests that will want to nibble on your crops, from the tiny aphid to a deer. You will always face challenges to protect your precious vegetable plants and it is imperative to do what you can to keep these critters away from crops. The levels of protection you need to put in place will depend on your location and local pests. If there is a risk of deer you may need a fence as big as eight feet high, while fences for small burrowing animals need to be buried at least one feet deep as well as being up to four feet high above the ground.
Fences can come in many shapes and sizes for a vegetable garden and they are the most reliable method to keep larger animals out of the garden, though if you do not want a permanent structure then there are more natural options for protection. Companion planting, for example, is a valuable organic method to keep animals from munching on your plants. It is capable of keeping a wide range of pests away. David Angelov, CEO & Founder of PlantParenthood, says: ‘Plant garlic or onion bulbs surrounding the vegetable beds, the green stalks emit an odor and a taste that bunnies and squirrels stay away from! It acts as a low, natural fence.’ As well as garlic or onions, marigolds are a great option for deterring rabbits.
Other tactics to consider for keeping animals out include using decoys, such as decoy predatory birds, or the likes of spinning wheels or old CDs. Utilizing raised beds or growing vegetables in containers can also keep ground-dwelling animals at bay, as long as they are tall enough.
Rabbits can wreak havoc on a vegetable patch
(Image credit: Getty/JenAphotographer)
Soil and water both play important roles in vegetable crops growing well and giving you a yield, however you can further boost the available nutrients and ultimate harvest by using fertilizers.
Such fertilizers offer concentrated forms of essential nutrients, primarily based on nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) and on any plant fertilizer label you will see references to NPK and its make-up in the form of a ratio, eg. 10-10-10. Healthy soil can be enough to successfully grow vegetables and fruit, but the addition of fertilizers can help get an increased yield.
Fertilizers can come in organic and synthetic forms and can either be applied as a granular feed, liquid feed, or a spray-on foliar form. Liquid feeds are quicker and easier to take up, but can be more easily washed away, while granular forms last longer. Always apply any feed at the rate recommended by the manufacturer, as over-applying can cause serious harm to the plants.
There are fantastic organic feeds that can be made at home, from the likes of comfrey, borage, or nettles. Comfrey, in particular, both attracts pollinators and takes up large amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that is stored in the leaves.
Ruth Hayes advises making a rich comfrey fertilizer that can be used to feed vegetable plants. She says: ‘Simply crush the leaves in a bucket and add a lid, as the solution will stink to high heaven as the leaves rot down. Check the bucket every few weeks, pouring off and collecting any liquid that has collected and adding more leaves. When you come to use your comfrey liquid, dilute it in 10 parts of water first.’
Feeding crops is one task that can be regularly overlooked when the pressures of watering, weeding, and harvesting all add up. Plan fertilizing crops into your maintenance regime for the vegetable garden and you will be fully rewarded with bigger yields.
Granular fertilizers are sprinkled around plants and need to be watered in
(Image credit: Getty/VisualArtStudio)
Growing vegetables need not be complicated and new gardeners should not be disillusioned by reading these vegetable garden problems. A lot of them are very simple to prevent and, with a little bit of research, you can still plan the vegetable garden of your dreams. There will always be challenges when it comes to growing, but they help build experience and develop you as a gardener.
Source: homesandgardens.com
The first step to getting your family eating fresh vegetables is to start a vegetable garden. Vegetables grow best in a location with good soil, lots of sun and easy access to water.
Plant a diverse mixture of vegetable types to produce a balanced harvest. Some plants, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers require more space than others.
LINCOLN – On Wednesday, March 22nd at 6:30 p.m., Lincoln Public Library, 145 Old River Road, will host a presentation on the basics of starting a vegetable garden by William Baddeley, a URI master gardener.
Vegetable gardening is an activity that requires some basic knowledge of what vegetable plants need to thrive, states a news release. Wednesday’s talk covers the basics and provides an orientation to life in the garden.
Source: valleybreeze.com
The first step is to decide which vegetables you want to grow and in what zones. Then, find a site where you can enjoy a sunny spot and close enough to a water source to keep the soil moist.
Westend61 / GETTY IMAGES
On This Page
What Is Companion Planting?
Benefits
Plants That Deter Pests
Plants That Provide Shade
Plants That Attract Pollinators
Companion Planting Chart
Common Mistakes
The key to growing a successful garden is being diligent about planning. While you may like the way a plant looks in one area of your yard, it doesn’t necessarily mean that’s where the greenery will thrive. One way to ensure your flora stays healthy is by focusing on companion planting, which is the practice of growing plants that mutually benefit one another together. From edible plants to flowers, there are a handful of plants that can help prevent diseases, deter pests, and provide shade for nearby company.
Related: Your Comprehensive Guide to Starting and Cultivating a Vegetable Garden
Companion planting is an important aspect of gardening, especially if you’re growing fruits, vegetables, and herbs. “It is a method of growing plants in a combination that will benefit both species,” says Carrie Spoonemore of Park Seed and the co-creator of From Seed to Spoon. For example, many gardeners grow herbs next to vegetables because they help to repel hungry pests.
Another important aspect of companion planting is considering which plants don’t like being next to each other. “Some plants get too tall and can provide too much shade for your plant,” says Spoonemore. “Sometimes, certain plants attract the same pests, so it is essential to separate these.”
There are a handful of benefits of companion planting. “A companion plant may repel pests, attract beneficial insects, benefit the growth of another plant, or improve its partner’s flavor,” says Spoonemore. “Further, companion planting could decrease the need for pesticides, attract pollinators, improve the soil, and increase your harvest.”
By improving soil quality through companion planting, you can also reduce the risk of diseases caused by nutrient imbalances spreading amongst your plants. Additionally, some plants help neighboring plants with weed control, which further supports and maximizes the use of your gardening space.
Related: How to Keep Deer Out of Your Garden
Philippe Gerber / GETTY IMAGES
Pests are a problem you’ll likely encounter in your garden, but companion planting can help you limit this concern. “Often, pests find pungent odors unappealing—therefore, place herbs and other strong smelling plants nearby,” says Adrienne R. Roethling, the director of curation and mission delivery at Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden. “However, most herbs need stimulation to get the oils moving to allow the fragrance to permeate.” For this reason, you should rub the leaves of your herbs often to encourage them to release their natural scent.
Marigolds are also effective at deterring pests, especially when paired with herbs. “One great example of companion planting is the combination of marigolds and basil with tomatoes,” says Spoonemore. “The marigolds can help repel pests like aphids, while the basil can enhance the flavor of the tomatoes.”
The following plants are often used to deter pests in gardens:
Basil
Cilantro
Marigolds
Lavender
Chrysanthemums
Sage
Thyme
Petunias
Helaine Weide / Getty Images
One way to practice companion planting is by growing taller, fuller plants next to ones that require shade. “Companion plants that provide shade can help reduce sun exposure, which can be beneficial for some plants that prefer cooler climates or need protection from the heat,” says Spoonemore. “Shading plants can also act as natural mulch, helping keep the soil moist and reducing evaporation.” What’s more, shading plants can help you prolong the growing season of some cool season plants into summer by protecting them from that blazing afternoon sun.
Plants with an upright growing pattern will typically offer coverage for low growing plants. The following plants are often used to provide shade:
Parsley
Borage
Yarrow
Cosmos
Scarlet sage
Garden phlox
Coneflower
Related: How to Grow and Care for Bee Balm, the Pollinator Plant Your Garden Is Missing
Flowers with showy blooms are key if you want to attract pollinators to your yard. “Companion plants that encourage pollinators are essential because they attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects to the garden,” says Spoonemore. “These insects help pollinate plants, increasing yields and creating a healthier ecosystem.”
While you likely don’t have a problem attracting pollinators if you have a flower garden, vegetable plants can benefit from some help. “Vegetable plants in the solanum family—tomatoes, peppers and eggplants—have small flowers often hidden in the foliage,” says Roethling. “But adding brightly colored flowers nearby will attract the pollinators. Most pollinators see blobs, so the more color, the better.”
Most flowers will attract pollinators, but these are some commonly used varieties:
Bee balm
Lavender
Sunflowers
Zinnias
Cosmos
Marigolds
Violas
Sandra Westermann / GETTY IMAGES
When growing edible plants in your yard, keep these popular planting combinations in mind.
There are a few common mistakes gardeners encounter when companion planting—and they can cause unintended stress on your plants. First, avoid choosing plants that have competing root systems, as this can inhibit growth overall. Additionally, don’t forget to consider each plant’s growth habits. “Consider plant height and size to make sure plants have enough room to grow,” says Spoonemore.
Another common oversight is planting incompatible plants too close together. “It’s crucial to remember that plants can have friends and foes,” says Spoonemore. Always check to make sure plants are compatible before planting them next to one another.
Source: yahoo.com
